Looks like Lonely Planet may have some dates mixed up, because we walked into one of the strangest parades imaginable. Upon arriving back to the impeccably clean Hostal Latacunga, Marcelo, the man, told us of the days events during his warm welcome. Latacunga believes that the Virgen de las Mercedes protects it from the neighboring Cotopaxi Volcan. Strangely this belief continues despite three complete destructions of the town by the volcano.
Years ago a priest wanted to gain the favor of the Virgin by hosting the procession but failed to provide the party with enough food and drink. That evening a premonition occurred in the priest's dreams featuring a black woman who scorned him for his failure to provide. She chastised the priest so much that her memory became a staple in the parade astride a horse. She patrols with, and counter to, the parades direction constantly policing the festival. Mama Negra shoots the crowd with aguardiente, a sugarcane alcohol, and makes sure that everyone enjoys a bountiful supply.
Another factor of this parade was that all of the mamas were played by cross-dressed men according to custom. Others are dressed as white witches who purify the procession by blowing smoke and over serving spectators with yet more aguardiente.
Perhaps the most impressive part of the parade were the ashangueros. Groups of men took turns getting boozed up and carrying a whole roasted pig filleted on a cross carrying the image of the Virgen. Surrounding the pig are roasted cuy, guinea pigs, porting liquor shooters and cigarettes. The entire display was 12 feet high and must have weighed 200-250 pounds.
The parade is completely politically incorrect, completely amusing to watch, and occurs in February as apposed to September.
