Surrounded by Volcanos that tower 3000m on every side, a rainy town called Baños tempts fate. Typically when you ask for the baños you need a toilet, but there are no baños here, instead they renamed them the more formal "servicios". The town has become a popular destination for anything outside (if you are willing to get wet). Hiking, biking, rafting, base jumping and zip-lines are some of the popular activities that draw people here. We had the good fortune of an excellent Carnaval celebration too.
We heard that Ecuadorians play "sucio". Carnaval is far from the splendor of the parades in Rio and the drunken mess of New Orleans. Here it is about sneaking up behind somebody and filling their ear with a foam similar to, but not as long lasting as, shave cream. Friends take it further with eggs, water, talcum powder, and anything that generally makes a mess. I had read that motor oil was also used in some circles, ick.
Everyone is fair game. Senior citizens bounded like they were in their teens to cover a group with foam. Children ran to passing cars, the ones with their windows open, and filled their faces and laps with foam. Especially dangerous was being a white guy. When they saw I had foam myself, they made every effort to get in a shot, and despite my best defenses, I ended soaking wet with a huge smile. The celebration was surprisingly wholesome for all ages.
The next day we braved the rain and got back on bikes (despite our previous fiasco). The routa del cascadas was a 9 mile mostly downhill ride east of town. We were absolutely drenched head to toe five minutes into the descent. As we got lower and lower out of the clouds the weather improved considerably. Every couple of hundred yards there was a waterfall, and once a mile there was a big one thundering from 100+ feet high.
At the end of the route we paid 1.50 to enter the Devil's Calderon. A steep path lead down a hill which we noticed was getting progressively wetter and louder with each step. A house at the bottom marks the official entrance to the Calderon where you climb up onto their deck and then than up a staircase to the Fall. At the top of the stairs huddled in those cheap plastic ponchos was a mass of 10 to 15 people. What we found out is that they were staying safe from what was just around the bend.
A torrent like I've never seen, a misting, teaming, crashing and plunging river toppled over the cliff on its way toward the amazon basin. The percussion of the falls in the tight canyon was immense. Plumes of mist rose 60 to eighty feet from the invisible pool somewhere underneath. The wind picked up these plumes toward the walkway to soak any who dared turn the corner.
By this time nothing on our bodies was dry, our shoes squished, and we hoped that our phones survived. We dripped the whole way back up the hill. A fellow loaded our bikes in the back of his truck and whisked us back to the hostel.
Baños namesake also comes from the hot springs. There are two major ones that are recommended. The first is the oldest, la Virgen, is located in town and an easy walk. They have three pools (two appeared broken or closed). This spring is the only one open late until 10. It is situated next to the towns Cabellara de la Virgen which is a fun waterfall for some pics and in the shrine area where they claim the water is healing and potable.
We heard that el Salado was nicer and took a 3 dollar cab to get there. Fifty cents rented the obligatory swim cap and three dollars for admittance per person. They offer bag storage complementary but remember the hotel's towel (and not your own). Salado has 6 pools of varying temperatures and a nice streamside location. We stayed until close at 5 pm and headed home shriveled.
